Food & Dining

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Kelly Liken Vail

Sometimes we forget, living here on the front range in Colorado, just how gorgeous our mountain towns are. I don’t seem to get there nearly enough, but when I visited Vail recently, I made a beeline for the restaurant of the now somewhat famous chef, Kelly Liken. If you’re a foodie who watches Top Chef on Bravo, you’ve seen her competing and as of this posting, she’s still in it.

I’m partial to restaurants where the chef provides a little present to diners at the start, an amuse bouche, and Kelly started the meal off with an incredibly delicious beet and fennel soup served in a small Asian soup spoon. Accompanied by the savory olive bread, it set the tone for the evening.

My husband and I share the elk carpaccio – I had to, having seen the rave reviews she got for her beef carpaccio on last week’s show. The elk was really fabulous, but what sealed if for me was the spoonful of minty tabbouleh served on top.

The rack of CO lamb is great – feta, couscous, raita and eggplant caviar, all share the plate and work together instead of clashing.

And although we passed on dessert, the pleasant surprise of a root beer and peach homemade lollipop presented with our check capped off the evening perfectly.

I loved the food here, but be warned, prices are steep, in particular for the wines which are served in half glasses, full glasses, and carafes. A single glass of CA sparkling wine set me back $20, and I think my husband’s carafe of cabernet – about 2 glasses – rang up at well over $40. Still, it’s fun to dine in a celebrity spot, and I’m rooting for Kelly on Top Chef!

It’s that time of year in the gardens of Colorado: one day you have an innocent looking squash blossom like this, and seemingly overnight it morphs into a 2 pound, foot long zucchini that you can barely carry to the kitchen. With even just one plant you might find yourself struggling with new ways to cook it. Here are a few of my favorite ways to use this summer super star:

Spaghetti alla Nerano – in this simple and authentic Italian dish, the zucchini are slow cooked until soft then tossed simply with cooked spaghetti, lots of extra virgin olive oil, basil, and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

Zucchini Bread – your kids won’t even know there is a vegetable in there, and this is a great way to use those oversized vegetables. Cut them in half lengthwise and scoop out the spongy seeds down the center, then grate the rest – including skin – and use to make a quick bread. Here’s my recipe.

Shoestring Fried Zucchini – sinfully good! Shred zucchini and deep fry until crispy (which takes long than you think it should), drain, sprinkle with salt and enjoy.

Zucchini and Tomatoes with Cheese – saute sliced zucchini and tomatoes together until slightly soft, sprinkle with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and serve.

Cream of Zucchini Soup – click here for an easy recipe. Don’t be afraid to make a big batch because this freezes well.

Mock Apple Pie – if this sounds retro to you, it totally is. In this classic dish, zucchini stands in for apples, and once combined with other ingredients like brown sugar and cinnamon, you’d never know it’s zucchini. Recipes abound on the internet.

Zucchini Salad with Lemon and Feta – shred fresh zucchini and toss with lemon juice, some olive oil, and feta cheese. Greek inspired genius.

When all else fails, shred the cleaned zucchini and package it into small plastic bags to freeze. The thawed zucchini can be used throughout the year to make zucchini bread, cake, cookies or pasta sauces.

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I can’t tell you how happy I was to receive these disposable plates from Angela at Marx Foods. I was sent the plates gratis and asked to review them – something I rarely agree to. But in this case I was intrigued and I’m happy to report they are one fantastic product!

The plates are made from palm leaves, which are harvested after the tree sheds them – no trees are cut down to make them. And while they are plant based, they feel as strong as a good weight plastic disposable plate – but with the benefit of being biodegradable and compostable. Not to mention their sleek design, kind of a bowl and plate combined so that nothing falls of your plate while you balance it on your lap at your next picnic.

To order, visit Marx Foods website. You’ll find a wide selection of shapes and sizes, including full place settings for that extra special outdoor event.

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Last Thursday, July 15, the Governor’s Residence Preservation Fund threw a fabulous garden party. The party, sponsored by CH&L, is a non-partisan fund-raising event that brings many wonderful things together in one place: butlered champagne, catered treats and rubbing elbows with Colorado’s finest, all in the beautiful gardens surrounding the Boettcher Mansion.

People mingled through the South Terrace gardens, and passed the evening sipping on champagne and munching on some of the most delightful treats (including a phenomenal lobster taco from Marlowe’s). Some very notorious Colorado residents came out to enjoy the party, including former first lady Frances Owens and Arlene Hirschfeld.

The Garden Party raises funds that will be used to maintain one of Colorado’s most beautiful and important homes. The GRPF holds events year round, welcoming the public inside Colorado’s Home to get a taste of our state’s history through the beautiful residence.

If you’re interested in attending one of the GRPF’s events or attending next year’s Garden Party, visit www.coloradoshome.org.

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Last week I had the pleasure of being included in Old Greenwich Builders‘ annual marketing meeting. Well, let me qualify…I happened to know that Chris Withers and Cress Carter, co-owners of OGB, host their annual planning meeting over steaks and wine. So this year, I invited myself because I couldn’t miss out on the opportunity to hear from one of Denver’s most notable general contractors about how business is going and what they have planned for the future. So, over a fabulous steak dinner at Elway’s in Cherry Creek, we enjoyed a bottle of 2005 Franciscan Magnificat from Napa Valley, CA, and talked shop.

Cress filled me in and said that business is good, and that even though it might not be back to where it once was, they’ve been able to start new projects in the past few months that have taken them into new neighborhoods, as well as start new business relationships (with New World Millworks, for example, who used to only deal with large high-end commercial projects.) Part of the reason Cress and Chris are still faring well in such a tough building economy is that they measure their success very simply by 100% customer satisfaction. They told me, “We remain friends with our clients, sometimes close friends, and you couldn’t do that if you didn’t feel like your clients weren’t completely happy with their homes.” Makes sense.

I asked them during dinner if it’s possible to complete a project on time and on budget–you hear so many stories on the contrary–and they told me that it definitely can be done, but that oftentimes their projects’ budgets are extended because their clients are exposed to far more detail than they know is possible. Once a client knows what kind of custom detailing is available to them, they often make decisions to increase their budgets and upgrade their design and finishes.

It doesn’t hurt that Cress and Chris are the nicest, most honest, interesting, and easy-on-the-eyes guys you will ever meet. If you are looking for a high-end renovation or custom-home builder, check out OGB’s work: oldgreenwichbuilders.com.

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Where else can you sample some of the top morsels from some of the most innovative chefs in Denver all while helping to raise money to end childhood hunger in Colorado? Taste of the Nation, sponsored by Share Our Strength, will hold it’s Denver event in just two weeks and the event promises to spotlight the hottest chefs and mixologists in Colorado. Participating restaurants include Encore, Elway’s Cherry Creek, Table 6, Avenue Grill, D Bar, Vesta Dipping Grill, Jonesy’s Eat Bar, Steubens, and more.

The Denver event will help end childhood hunger right here in Colorado. Proceeds will go to Operation Frontline Colorado, an organization that teaches nutrition, cooking skills, and financial planning to low income families in our community, and to the The Campaign to End Childhood Hunger in Colorado, a broad coalition working on a comprehensive 5-year plan to ensure that all children in our state have access to healthy food at home, at school and in the community. As a volunteer Chef Educator for Operation Frontline myself, I can attest to the powerful impact these programs have with families in the Denver area.

Round up your friends and purchase your tickets now for this fun and worthwhile event!

Taste of the Nation Denver
July 18, 2010
5:00 – 8:00 PM General Admission
Mile High Station
2027 West Lower Colfax Avenue
Denver, CO 80204

Recently I had what I thought was an inspired and original idea. I decided to plant mint in my alley behind the garage. Mint is a great summer herb that can be used in both sweet and savory dishes, but it’s notorious for its ability to creep well past where you intend for it to grow. By planting it in the alley, under that cute little downspout my builder installed, I figured it could grow as it pleases, would get some natural water from the spout, and I wouldn’t need to worry about it.

As it turns out, my idea isn’t really all that original. Whether by design or by accident, many alleys in Denver are home to a wide variety of herbs and other edible plants. One short walk in my own neighborhood taught me that mint has clearly been growing in these alleys for years.

If you’d like to take advantage of learning how to harvest what’s growing in your own neighborhoods, check out the “Urban Foraging” Alley Walk class offered by Denver Botanic Gardens this Saturday, June 19th, from 10-12 in the morning. In the class you’ll not only learn how to select what’s safe to eat, you’ll also build an “alley salad” to share with the group. Visit the Denver Botanic Gardens website for details and registration.

 

 

What is better on a hot summer day than lush, juicy home grown tomatoes? I’ve started a couple dozen from seed, but I always like to get a few "ringers" to fill out my selection. I have been looking for a place that carries more than the usual suspects, and recently came across this fabulous local source: The Denver Tomato Farm is a new venture between urban farmers Carolyne Janssen & Tracy Weil, who specialize in the cultivation and preservation of organic heirloom tomatoes.

Their goal is to grow and sell a variety of heirloom tomato plants in the spring as well as selling the produce grown at Janssen’s plots at her Capital Hill home and Weil’s plot located at the Weilworks art compound. Both plots are completely organic. Janssen and Weil are heirloom hobbyists, not commercial growers.

This year they have 42 varieties, including Cherokee Purple, Oxheart, Tigerella and  Snow White Cherry. They are collaborating with the GrowHaus in Denver to start more than 1,000 seedlings!

Plant and produce sales will be held at Weilworks, 3611 Chestnut Place in the fabulous River North Art District (otherwise known as RiNo).

The two day sale will be Saturday, May 1st 2010 from 10am – 3pm & Sunday, May 2nd from 10am – 1pm at Weilworks, $5 per plant.

Don’t miss it. I sure won’t!

–Elaine St. Louis

Most people I meet think being an editor is a super-glam job–and maybe it is if you’re Anna Wintour. Truth is, I love my job, but like any job, it has perks–like peeking inside of other people’s beautiful homes and getting to attend some of the most fabulous events in Colorado–and drawbacks–like meticulously checking every piece of punctuation in 45-50 pages of editorial content eight times a year.

But one of the little perks that is just plain fun is getting samples of new products. Samples of wallpaper and fabrics, pre-release books, gourmet treats, pillows (lots and lots of pillows)–they end up on my desk with some frequency. (I also get very strange product samples, like a tiny rubber replica of the Statue of Liberty that arrived about six months ago. Not sure what that was all about…)

Not too long ago, I got a real treat: a little sample of Coole Swan Premium Cream Liqueur. It. Is. Fabulous. Created from all-natural ingredients (no synthetic flavors or colors), it is made from fresh double cream from Irish dairy lands and single-malt Irish whiskey.

Here’s the kicker: Dark, bittersweet chocolate is melted into the cream and complemented by Madagascan bourbon vanilla. Brilliant.

You can find Coole Swan at your favorite local liquor store. It’s relatively new to the Colorado market, so if you like Irish cream, give yourself a treat and go buy a bottle.

And as for the question about whether my job is super-glam…well, on days when goodies like Coole Swan show up, I guess it is.

 

Dark Passion

Chocolate: 5 basic types

Unsweetened - Pure chocolate with about 50 to 58 percent cocoa butter. This is the most bitter version of chocolate with no sugar added. The original Aztec xocolatl (bitter water) was made with unsweetened chocolate, and it is said that the Aztec ruler Montezuma drank 50 goblets a day.

Bittersweet - Made with at least 35 percent chocolate liquor. The most common form of baking chocolate and the most prized by chefs, chocolatiers and patissieres. The best bittersweet chocolates have a smooth, glossy finish, a satisfying “snap” when broken and complex flavor nuances.

Semi-sweet to Sweet – Made with 15-35 percent chocolate liquor.

Milk - Dry milk is added to sweetened chocolate. Quality milk chocolate should have at least 12 percent milk solids and 10 percent chocolate liquor. Mass-produced versions, like those used by Hershey’s and Mars, have added chemicals and stabilizers.

White Chocolate – This is not technically chocolate because it doesn’t contain any chocolate liquor. It is a mixture of sugar, cocoa butter, milk solids, lecithin and vanilla. Quality versions provide a lovely, subtle flavor and a creamy texture.

 

Once considered a powerful elixir of the Aztec gods, chocolate is now a flavor loved and savored by millions around the globe. From its origins in the tropics of Central and South America, this bitter bean inspires fiery discourse, arouses lovers’ passions and provides sublime solace for the sad and lonely. True chocolate is a remarkable substance, one with complex flavors and smooth textures.

To create a high-quality chocolate, carefully selected beans of the cocoa pod are fermented, dried, roasted and cracked. Next, the nibs (inside the shell) are ground to extract some of the cocoa butter, leaving a thick, dark brown chocolate liquor. Finally, the liquor is conched, whereby the substance is blended and heated, ridding it of moisture and acids, and then combined with sugar or sugar and milk (except for unsweetened), and poured into molds.

Though navigating the world of artisan chocolates may seem daunting, local expert Will Poole of Wen Chocolates, wenchocolates.com, believes that “it is really about returning to your inner child, you must get your fingers dirty.” Taste as many different kinds as you can. Each one will have its own nuances—some may hint of black cherries, others of coffee or spices.

Once you have found a chocolate you like, test it out in the recipes on the following page. Then branch out and experiment with unexpected ingredients. Try mixing in savory spices like curry or cardamom; the zest of exotic citrus fruits like kumquats; teas, such as Earl Grey or Jasmine; or heady liquors like cognac and Frangelico. “Don’t worry if it isn’t perfect,” says Poole, who just opened a Wen Chocolates retail shop in LoDo, “At the very least you will end up with a great chocolate sauce.”

Visit the Colorado Homes & Lifestyles recipe file for the following recipes:

Hand-Rolled Chocolate Truffles
Drinking Chocolate
Brandy Truffles
Chai Truffles
White Chocolate Chai

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